Сорочка, perhaps, is the most poetic element of the traditional dress of Ukrainians. From birth to the end of earthly life shirt, as the human soul, accompanied her on weekdays and holidays.
Researcher, art critic Vira Zaichenko notes, that in documents shirts are called shirts (women), shirts (men's) and shirts. A large number of shirts are mentioned among the property of the Cossack sergeant. The material is specified, from which they are sewn - canvas "simple" and "imported", haze, as well as embroidery material - cotton, золото, срібло.
Shirts are very old clothes. There are more of them in the museum collection 500 from all corners of Chernihiv region.
Men's shirts were decorated with embroidery on the collar, on both sides of the long bosom and on the edge of the sleeves, but special attention was paid to women's shirts, after all, a woman is the guardian of folk traditions.
The practical use of this element of the dress justified the expediency of the cut. Long shirts are typical for Chernihiv region, one-piece (t.z.. "Detachable"). Weddings have always been made by dodels, festive and funeral shirts - an attribute of solemn events, rites and holidays.
Shoulder inserts ("Settings", “Poliki”) - sleeves were sewn to them. Wrist wedges ("Swallows", "Swallows") added comfort in wearing clothes. The wrists were decorated with cuffs ("Covers"), later - frills ("ripple"). The incision of the sinus was long and almost not decorated, for on top of the shirt was still a breastplate: corset, skirt with a bib.
The idea of the protective value of ornaments can be traced in the embroidery of shirts, where history is intertwined in this ancient art, mythology, the religion of our ancestors. The most common were geometric ornaments: diamonds (popular names - "circles", "Shuttles"), fertility symbols, welfare, motherhood; crosses - an ancient solar sign, with the advent of Christianity - is associated with the figure of the Savior.
The color of folk embroidery of Chernihiv region is refined and restrained, combined with red, white and black colors.
Сьогодні, embroidered shirt took its rightful place at ceremonial and youth events, and in everyday life as a festive and patriotic element of clothing.
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